Thursday, August 8, 2013

Basics: Eggs


 
Ah, the incredible, edible egg. Such a versatile little capsule of deliciousness. Crack one open, and the possibilities are practically endless. Boil ‘em, scramble ‘em, fry ‘em, poach ‘em… Yeah, I know. I sound like Bubba again. I’ll stop… for now. =)


The question I hear most often when I tell people that I’m Paleo or Primal is, “what the heck do you eat for breakfast?” We Americans have become so ingrained (yes, pun absolutely intended) in the idea of grains for breakfast that it’s hard to imagine a breakfast without them… until you get creative, of course (which is where I come in!). Now, I’ll admit that it took me a while to get past the standard bacon-and-eggs-for-breakfast mentality of the Primal noob, but it sustained me for a long time. I still eat bacon and eggs at least 3 times a week for breakfast, even after 3 years of coming up with awesome breakfasts that don’t involve eggs (see my Famous Bowl of Win as a prime example). And though eggs are incredibly versatile in the ways they can be prepared and eaten by themselves, they are even better when paired with other things besides that crispy, salty, fatty yummmmm known as bacon. The sad part is that many people aren’t keen on eggs simply because they’ve never had them prepared properly. For example, last night I witnessed something I thought I’d never see: Guy Fieri ate a fried egg. Guy is the host of ‘Diners, Drive-Ins, & Dives’ on The Food Network, my absolute favorite show. It’s well-known to his fans and friends that he doesn’t like eggs. But when the owner of Pizzeria Lola in Minnesota presented him with the Sunnyside Pizza (topped, obviously, with sunny-side-up eggs), he hesitated, tried it, and then admitted that “this is the only way I’ll ever eat eggs.” One more believer in the bag! Woo-hoo!!! =)

It’s easy to make eggs in a number of ways, but doing it RIGHT is harder. There are a lot of methods and theories on what works and what doesn’t, but the basics are the same as with any staple food: time, temperature, and method. Below, you’ll find the most tried-and-true ways to cook eggs in a variety of ways, some different theories of what works best, and links to further reading and even videos!

As a bonus, I’m linking you to recipes from around the blogosphere that feature eggs. Use these as a way to expand your egg repertoire, for inspiration, and for new sources of cooking tips and the occasional good laugh!

 

The Basics of Eggs

Eggs got a bad rep there for a while, during the whole cholesterol scare of the 80’s (you remember that photo on the cover of Time Magazine?). But science has since shown that eggs are not only NOT bad for us, they’re probably one of the best foods we can eat. Eggs are a cheap, easy source of complete protein, with as much as 10g depending on the quality and size of the egg. They’re loaded with nutrients, like vitamins B2 and B12, and choline, which is needed for a number of bodily functions including maintaining cell membrane structure, nerve impulse transmission, and fat transport and metabolism. One egg can get you as much as 60% of your daily dose of choline. They are also one of the few foods that contain naturally high levels of Vitamin D. Most of this nutrition is found in the yolk along with the fats that will carry those nutrients to your cells, which is why it’s important to eat the yolks. Not only that, but they’re deliiiiiiiicious….

I’m sure you’re all aware that there are 2 parts to an egg: a white, and a yolk. Did you know that there are dozens, perhaps over a hundred ways to prepare eggs, including whole and separated into these two parts? Think about it: Whites are beaten into meringues for pies or added to baked goods (like waffles) to make them fluffier; yolks are used in ice cream and mayonnaise as an emulsifier; whole eggs are used in everything… the list is long and wondrous. For the purposes of keeping this short (as short as I can keep anything, of course! Hahaha), I’ll stick with the most common ways of making eggs: hard-boiled, soft-boiled, scrambled, fried, poached, baked, and the crème de la crème of eggs, the elusive omelette. But first, I want to cover some egg safety:

-          Never buy eggs that are cracked in the container. This is a big source of salmonella contamination. Open each carton and pick up the eggs one at a time, going through a dozen or more cartons if you have to (and if every one has a cracked egg in it, I suggest finding a new grocer). Buy eggs well before the expiration date on the side- within a week is fine, but eat or cook and freeze them before that date. Make sure the eggs stay cold on their way home from the store, and go straight into the fridge once you get there.

-          Always wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling raw eggs. Clean and sanitize any surface that was dripped with raw white or yolk, and wash all utensils used to make your eggs in hot soapy water.

-          Don’t crack the eggs open on the edge of a bowl or countertop. This could introduce bacteria from the outside of the egg to the inside. Tap them on a flat surface and gently pry the halves apart. This keeps the bacteria on the outside of the egg, and it makes a nice clean ‘seam’ for you to open the egg.

-          Make sure your eggs are cooked thoroughly. If you MUST have runny yolks, follow these guidelines for the different styles of eggs commonly served with runny yolks: Fried eggs- 2 to 3 minutes on each side, 4 minutes in a covered pan; poached eggs- 5 minutes over boiling water or 4 minutes in gently simmering water; soft-boiled eggs- 7 minutes in boiling water (source: Home Comforts by Cheryl Mendelson). Runny whites are a different matter. Always cook your eggs until the whites are set, following the above guidelines. You can also read the doneness guidelines at the end of this list for more info.

-          Keep eggs and egg dishes at the proper temperatures (below 40 degrees or above 140 degrees, 160 is better) when holding, and keep in airtight containers in the fridge or freezer once cooked. Keep them in their original cartons in a cold part of the fridge, not in the door. Observe storage times and temperatures as outlined here .

Visit these sites for more info on egg safety:





Okay, so we’ve covered what eggs are made of, the wonderful nutrition of eggs, and how to safely handle eggs. What’s next, what’s next… Oh yes, how to MAKE the eggs!!! Hahaha =) Here’s how to cook ‘em a few different ways:

Hard-boiled Eggs

There are a number of differing methods for hard-boiling eggs, but the general consensus on how to do this right is the same: Put the eggs in cold water, bring the water to just before a gentle boil (around 180-190 degrees), and allow the eggs to sit, covered, for about 10 minutes. Put them in an ice bath until cool, peel under running water, and scarf ‘em down. Depending on the strength of your stove, the type of pot you use, your elevation above sea level, and probably about 40 other factors, this may or may not work as well for you. But the general idea is still there. What you want to avoid is over cooking the white while leaving the yolk runny (which is why you start the eggs in cold water), or overcooking the whole thing, which is why some hard-boiled eggs get that greenish-gray ring around the yolk (the iron in the yolk reacts to the hydrogen sulfide in the white). Remember: time & temperature are everything in cooking, so make sure to use both a thermometer and a timer when making boiled eggs. You could also follow this method of hard-“boiling” a large batch of eggs in the oven for when you need to make more than a half dozen or so, such as for a big family, an egg salad, deviled eggs, or when dying Easter eggs. Here are some more tips for hard-boiled eggs, and a really nice chart for doneness with pictures and everything! (I’m a visual learner like that…)

Soft-boiled Eggs

Things are done a bit differently for soft-boiled eggs. Instead of starting in cold water, you put the eggs in when the water is around 180-190 degrees, let them sit for 6-7 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately. The idea here is to get the whites fully cooked while making the yolk thick & creamy, but not runny. Again, you might have to experiment to find the sweet spot for your particular setup, but it’s worth it- believe me.

This is where I got the pointers above. You can skip all the science stuff by going to the bottom and clicking to the next page, but I found it FASCINATING! I’m kind of a geek like that. I love organic chemistry and biochemistry, which is probably why I love food so much. It’s as much science as it is art! =) Another good tip for boiled eggs: slightly older eggs are better, as very fresh eggs may be more difficult to peel.

Scrambled Eggs

These tips come from yours truly. I learned this method from my dad, and I’m happy to say that I’ve perfected it over the years. I didn’t read this on any website or in any book until after I’d been making them this way for 20 years. I did eventually find out that this is the traditional French method of making scrambled eggs, which just got me that much more excited. You know how I love all things French! =)

Crack the eggs into a bowl. Add 1 tsp of heavy cream per egg. You can add salt, pepper, and/or chopped herbs at this point, or wait until just about any stage of the cooking process. It’s up to you. Whip the eggs with a whisk or a fork until the mixture is uniform in color and as much of the white has been incorporated as possible (no floating ‘clear’ spots from the white or yellow specks from the yolk). Turn the heat under the pan to medium-low and add enough butter to keep the eggs from sticking if you’re NOT using a non-stick pan. If you are, just pour the eggs into the cold pan and turn the heat to medium-low. You can add butter if you want, but the real secret to perfect scrambled eggs is to NOT pre-heat the pan. Pans that aren’t non-stick will need something to keep the egg from crusting to the bottom- hence the butter- but non-stick pans, good ones, won’t need it. You can use butter for flavor (I do), but it’s not necessary. Anyway, sorry for the brief diversion…  If you’re using butter, let it melt just enough so that there’s no solid pieces of it in the pan, but it isn’t foaming or crackling. Pour the eggs into the pan and stir, stir, stir, preferably with a wooden spoon. Low and slow is the key here. You can’t walk away from this. It’ll take time. It’ll take patience. And it’ll be worth every minute. Keep stirring the eggs until the bottom and sides set up a bit, then let it sit for about a minute. Stir again. Repeat this until the top of the egg mixture is still a bit liquid-y, then stir constantly until the eggs are glossy but no longer “wet.” Turn the heat off and plate the eggs ASAP. They continue to cook for a minute or so afterwards, so make sure you don’t overcook them in the pan. And remember, glossy not runny.  If you want to add anything to the eggs, like chopped veggies, cooked meats, or shredded cheese, it’s best to do it about 5 minutes into the stirring phase. Delicate herbs, like dill and basil, can be added just before the final stir-constantly phase. Keep in mind that if you add anything, it’ll change your cooking time, so keep a close watch on the eggs and always, ALWAYS pre-cook any meat that you add (the one exception here may be lox, which is technically already cooked via the smoking process, but anything else does need to be cooked first).

Fried Eggs

The traditional way to fry an egg is to drop it whole into a pan of hot oil, as if you were frying chicken, then, using wooden spoons, gather the white around the yolk and “spin” it in the oil until the whites solidify around the yolk. You can watch this video from Jaques Pepin for a better idea of what I’m getting at. I doubt many of you would want to go through the trouble of heating that much oil to do in 30 seconds what you can do in a frying pan in about 5 minutes, but it is tres chic, non? (Me and my Frenchiness again… lol) Frying eggs is like boiling eggs: simple, but elusive in how to get it just right. You want the pan hot enough to cook the white, but not so hot that it chars the edges and leaves the yolk runny. You want the yolk creamy and thick, not dry and chalky. So where’s the middle ground? Well, that depends on you, really. Fried eggs must be cooked with an oil, so pick your fat (bacon fat & butter are my favorites, but ghee, coconut oil, and palm kernel oil work, too), melt it in a pan over medium heat, crack the eggs one at a time in a separate bowl and pour gently into the pan, and cook until the whites are set and the yolk is thick but not solid. This usually takes about 4-5 minutes, depending on how hot the pan is, how large the eggs are, etc. You can also cover the eggs if you want; this will set up the thin layer of white that covers the top side of the yolk. How “done” it needs to be depends on how you like it. Personally, I like my eggs fried over medium, which means I flip them over after about 3 minutes, then turn the pan off and let them sit for a minute or so before plating. For over easy, flip them and turn the heat off, and plate them as quickly as possible, but be careful not to break the yolk when taking it out of the pan. This can be tricky, and I’ve ruined many a good fried egg by rushing things. Refer back to my post from Tuesday about taking things slow & smooth in the kitchen. Doneness in fried eggs is a preference, but make sure you’re cooking it thoroughly enough to kill any possible bacteria. Safe cooking temperatures for fried eggs can be found at the link above, but remember that the yolk starts to set at 150 degrees, so that’s the minimum temp you should aim for. Final tip: the freshest eggs make the best fried eggs, so if you’re doing meal planning or batch cooking (for which I’ll have LOTS of pointers on Saturday), remember to use the last of your eggs for hard-boiling before you do the weekly shopping, and save the fresh ones for frying on the weekend. This is a big reason why I do the grocery shopping on Fridays: fresh fried eggs on Saturday morning! =)

Poached Eggs

Poached eggs are cooked whole in a gently boiling water bath, with a bit of vinegar added (about 1 tsp. for each cup of water). Fill a saucepan with water, measuring one cup at a time until it reaches at least 3 inches deep, set the heat to medium-high and bring to a brief boil. Turn the heat down until the water is no longer boiling, but is very close to it. Break the eggs into a small bowl or coffee mug, then slip the eggs one at a time into the water and cover the pan. Let them cook for about 4-6 minutes, depending on how many eggs you have in the pan (this time works for up to 6 eggs), then gently lift them out with a slotted spoon and serve. The yolk should be thick and creamy, and the white should be completely cooked. You can check out this link for details. Again, using fresh eggs is better for poaching as the white will better hold its shape. You can serve poached eggs over a bed of sautéed greens, with a pile of roasted root veggies or squashes, or with fresh sliced tomatoes and avocado. 

 Baked Eggs

There’s something so fancy, and yet so rustic, about baked eggs. If you’ve never had one served to you, warm and creamy at the worn-wood table of a quaint little B&B off Pacific Coast Highway, you’re missing out. But you don’t need a little B&B to get the charm of baked eggs. You will, however, need ramekins.
 
These are like little ovenproof casserole dishes that can hold just about anything that’s baked in single-serving sizes. You’ll also need veggies and/or meats if you want your eggs to be interesting, such as in this recipe, but not if you prefer them plain, such as here. The idea is simple: crack the eggs into the greased ramekins, bake at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes, and serve. Some people insist upon putting the ramekins into a water bath (a shallow pan filled with ¼”- ½” of water) to keep the sides from burning, but I don’t always see it listed as a step in baked egg recipes. Fiddle around and see which way you like it. It’s largely personal preference. There is one thing that’s consistent about baked eggs, whether you add meats, veggies, and herbs or not: ALWAYS use salt & pepper. Otherwise you’ll be eating a very bland egg indeed. Some great herbs to use would be dill (the leaf, not the seeds), basil, thyme, oregano, and chives. You could also sprinkle them with hot sauce, chili powder, cumin, or curry for something warm & spicy. Shredded cheddar, parmigiano-reggiano,  pecorino-Romano, gouda or gruyere would be fantastic melted over baked eggs. Just pop it under the broiler for a few short minutes, keeping an eye on it. Keep in mind that this could cook the egg a little further, so experiment and see what turns out right. You can top baked eggs with just about anything, or bake them over hundreds of combinations of meats and veggies, so let your imagination go nuts! =)

The Mother of All Egg Dishes: The Elusive Omelette

The French think we’re weirdos for eating omelettes before noon. In France, the omelette is a light dinner dish, cooked by whipping the egg mixture rapidly over very high heat, using clarified butter, and is usually seasoned with just salt & pepper or chopped herbs. I love the French and all, but I’m ‘Murican, so I like my omelette wrapped around a log of cheese, meats, and sautéed veggies, overcooked and dry as a rice cake… Just kidding. Sort of. But that’s the beauty of the omelette: you can make it any way you want it. You can even make sweet omelettes! But I won’t try to re-invent the wheel here. Trying to explain the “right” way to make an omelette is bound to spark debate… Hmm, maybe I ought to do it anyway and get some of y’all talking! Hahaha… Instead of laying out all the different methods, I’ll leave it to the master himself, Jaques Pepin, to demonstrate two different ways to make omelettes: the traditional “American” way, and the classic French technique. All you need to do now is make it your own. =)

 

For some really great ways to make your eggs in the styles you just learned, take a look at some of the incredible recipes below! Also, keep an eye out for my “Mt. Vesuvius” recipe coming later today or tomorrow; it’ll blow your mind! Pun totally intended =)







Shrimp, Sausage, and Summer Squash Casserole (a major favorite at my house! Just up the eggs from 2 to 6 and it’s pretty much a meat frittata. Worth the long cook time, TRUST me…)


 

If I could just say one more thing about eggs… Pastured is always better. I won’t get into all the ills of conventionally raised eggs here (but I know I will one day, on one of my Real Food Movement posts), but just know that not only are they more humanely raised, but they have much higher nutritional content, and they just TASTE better. Truly pastured eggs have yolks that are thick and dark yellow to almost red, and whites that are firm, almost jelly-like, not watery and thin. If you can find real pastured eggs near you at a store or farmer’s market, BUY THEM. BUY THEM NOW. You won’t regret it, and you’ll never go back to regular eggs, I promise. It’s worth the tiny uptick in price. And don’t worry; you’ll hear from me all about the awful conditions of Big Ag eggs in the near future…

 

Well folks, I think that covers eggs for now. I’ll be putting up my own egg creation either later today or tomorrow, so I hope you’ll come back and check it out! If you try any of these methods, make sure to let me know how it all came out. I looooove feedback... Grok on!!! =)

 

~Megan

1 comment:

Join the conversation! Feedback is always welcome in my cave. So treat this section like a bookstore: Browse, get comfy, sip some coffee (or bone broth, if coffee ain't your thing). But you wouldn't shout or drop f-bombs in a bookstore, would you? I hope not. So please, no profanity or typing in all caps (it's the online equivalent of shouting). Anyone breaking these rules or posting spam will be banished from the tribe. Thank you! =)